Joan Bagur Brings Authentic Mexican Cuisine to Europe
A Culinary Journey from Spain to Mexico
Joan Bagur, a talented chef from Menorca, Spain, has embarked on a mission to bring authentic Mexican cuisine to Europe. Unlike the fusion Tex-Mex dishes familiar to most, Bagur’s focus is on preserving and sharing the rich, indigenous culinary traditions of Mexico. His new restaurant, Oaxaca, opened in December 2023 in Amsterdam and offers a taste of genuine Mexican flavors.
Discovering the Richness of Mexican Culinary Heritage
In the early 2000s, Bagur’s career took a transformative turn when he visited Mexico. While the culinary world often looked to Japan for inspiration, Bagur realized that Mexico’s food culture was equally rich, dating back thousands of years. During his time in Mexico, he immersed himself in the local culture and culinary practices, gaining an understanding of the variety of corn, chilies, and the complexities of traditional Mexican sauces, or moles.
Learning from the Mayoras: Keepers of Tradition
One of Bagur’s greatest challenges was accessing the recipes and techniques passed down through generations of mayoras—Mexican female chefs who safeguard their recipes orally, passing them from mother to daughter. Bagur found his culinary mentor in Carmen “Titita” Ramírez Degollado, the owner of the renowned El Bajio restaurant in Mexico City. Her guidance and expertise helped him master traditional Mexican preparations.
Culinary Success in Mexico: Earning Praise from Top Chefs
Bagur’s hard work in Mexico paid off when his dishes earned praise from Ferran Adrià, one of the most celebrated chefs in the world. Adrià, known for his legendary El Bulli restaurant, was highly impressed with the traditional Mexican dishes Bagur served him, declaring El Bajio as one of the best restaurants globally. This acknowledgment validated Bagur’s efforts and further fueled his passion for authentic Mexican cuisine.
Bringing Authentic Mexican Flavors to Europe
Oaxaca in Barcelona: Introducing Mexican Cuisine to Spain
After over a decade in Mexico, Bagur returned to Europe to share his culinary discoveries. He opened his first European restaurant, Oaxaca, in Barcelona, where he aimed to bring authentic Mexican flavors to Spanish diners. Though Mexico and Spain share a historical connection, it took time for locals to embrace the bold flavors of traditional Mexican cuisine. However, Bagur remained steadfast in preserving the integrity of the dishes.
Oaxaca Amsterdam: A New Chapter
In December 2023, Bagur expanded his mission by opening a second Oaxaca location in Amsterdam, The Netherlands. This move marked a significant step in raising awareness of true Mexican culinary heritage in Europe. “Europeans know Tex-Mex, but I want them to taste real Mexican food,” Bagur states.
A Menu That Celebrates Authenticity
At Oaxaca, diners are treated to a range of traditional Mexican dishes. Bagur serves handmade tortillas from ancient grains, prepared with seafood, fish, and meats in time-honored styles. Dishes like ceviche with mango and soft shell crab with carrot puree highlight the complexity and depth of flavors found in authentic Mexican cuisine. Guests can also choose from a tasting menu that showcases a variety of small bites and full plates.
Supporting Authentic Mexican Agriculture in Europe
Growing Mexican Ingredients in Spain
To maintain the authenticity of his dishes, Bagur sources many ingredients directly from Mexican crops grown on small-scale farms near Barcelona. It took time to find a farmer who could grow native Mexican corn, but Bagur was committed to ensuring his tortillas were made the traditional way. Additionally, he imported a stone mill to process the corn, preserving the true flavors of Mexican cuisine.
A Unique Guacamole Experience
Bagur’s restaurants offer more than just traditional flavors—they bring a sense of theater to the table. Guacamole is prepared fresh in front of diners, using only the finest ingredients: avocado, green pepper, cilantro, onion, and salt. The dish is served with authentic totopos, crispy pork rinds, and an array of spicy salsas. For those looking to push boundaries, deep-fried grasshoppers and ants are available for extra texture and flavor.
Preserving and Honoring Mexican Culinary Heritage
A Global Mission
Joan Bagur’s journey from Menorca to Mexico and back to Europe reflects his dedication to preserving and sharing the rich heritage of Mexican cuisine. He aims to highlight the indigenous traditions that have shaped the culinary world but are often overlooked. Bagur’s work in Europe is not just about serving food; it’s about honoring the people and culture behind the recipes and creating awareness of authentic Mexican cuisine in a global context.